There are traditional Kafanas and classic restaurants - whichever you choose, you will not go hungry in Belgrade, and you will eat good quality food, regardless of whether the place of your choosing delivers Serbian or international dishes. In addition to traditional Serbian food, Belgraders are very fond of Italian cuisine and there are several restaurants boasting authentic Italian trattoria fare. Seafood is highly valued in Belgrade and you will find a superb offer of fresh fish and shells, cooked with as much passion as in the best restaurants along the Mediterranean coast. To justify the cosmopolitan spirit of the city, there are restaurants specialising in serving different world cuisines: Japanese, French, Chinese, Thai, Korean, Mexican, Lebanese, Greek, Spanish, Indian, Turkish and Russian cuisines, but they are not plenty).

Menus are usually written in Serbian and English, and waiters should be able to handle basic “Restaurant English” conversation. In days of religious fasting, it is quite normal to ask the waiter to have your meal prepared in the appropriate way. Under the smoking policies, restaurants smaller than 80 square meters may decide to become either fully smoking or non-smoking (most allow for smoking), while larger venues are required to have a separate smoke-free room. Rakija is an excellent aperitif (good restaurants will have a home-made rakija, ask the waiter for their recommendation). The main course costs between 5 and 15 EUR, and the price of a three-course meal ranges from 10 to 25 EUR. Belgrade waiters are known for their informal behaviour and keen memory. If you visit a place more than twice, they will know your favourite drink and how much you tip. Belgraders prefer to eat in company, under the open sky (weather permitting). Booking is not always necessary but is desirable if you want a particular table or are having in a large party. Standard opening hours are 12-24h, with kitchen taking orders until 23h.
   

  
Traditional Serbian restaurant is called a kafana (a coffeehouse), a word derived from Turkish language. Initially it was a place serving primarily black Turkish coffee, but its role expanded over time: in addition to being a drinking & eating establishment, kafana has served an important social function as a place for exchanging information, striking business deals, arguing about the meaning of life and venting emotions (there’s not much call for mental health professionals among kafana patrons). The very first coffehouse in Europe opened in Belgrade, in Dorćol, around the middle of the 16th century.
Kafanas have always been the hub of social life. A kafana provided a venue for the first operatic show, the first screening of a film, and the first book fair in Belgrade. It was in a kafana that the first electric light bulb burned and the first telephone rang in the city. A kafana even hosted Parliament sittings. There is no elitism in kafanas, people of different social standing and education, artists, white collars, blue collars and no-collar layabouts, all rub shoulders together. Politics and getting the bill will spark bitter arguments among patrons (although Serbia ranks fairly low on the list of countries by GDP per capita, everyone fights to pay the bill).

If we were to look for a fundamental characteristic of a kafana, which distinguishes it from a classic restaurant, we may find it in the informal bahaviour (dipping your bread in the roast meat juice, joining tables together, calling waiters by the name...) and in the fact that you do not have to dine there. You can stay in a kafana as long as you please, reading newspapers over a drink. The good atmosphere and patrons who "forgot to go home", sometimes put off the closing time until well after midnight. Most Belgraders will have their own favourite kafana, although in the past ten years they have come dangerously near extinction.
   
SERBIAN CUISINE           SERBIAN RAKIA AND WINE  

"?"
A: Kralja Petra 6, Tel: 2635-421. Open: Mon-Sun. 8- 24. This old Serbian kafana with a peculiar name is located in one of the oldest preserved buildings in the city. Built in 1823, it opened as a kafana three years later. It still has an old wood stove for cooking beans and roasting potatoes, creaky wooden floors, low round tables and four-legged stools, and is worth visiting to experience the authentic 19 century ambiance. If you are really hungry, the lamb “pod sačem” should be OK. In summertime, there are more tables on the street and in the back. Map H6

 
Caruso
A: Terazije 23 (8. sprat), Tel: 3248-037. Open: Mon- Sat. 8-24. Located on top of a building housing the Serbian Chamber of Commerce, it has a terrace with a picture postcard view of the city. To reach it, you need to find the unassuming entrance to the Chamber and take the elevator to the 8th floor. Be warned that men are required to wear long trousers, those casually attired in shorts or tracksuit bottoms will not be admitted. Food is quite good and reasonably priced for the ambience, and so are the local wines by the bottle. Try smoked trout with the side dish of Swiss chard and potato or Chef’s fillet of beef. Be sure to book in advance if you want a table on the terrace.
Map H7
 

Đorđe
A: Moravska 10, Tel: 3441-422, restorandjordje.rs. Open: Mon-Sun. 12-24. A proper Belgrade restaurant which offers traditional Serbian fare with a modern twist, whilst preserving the quintessence of the particular dish and taking great care about the quality of the ingredients. The bread is made in-house, and so are the soup noodles and sausages. Pleasant ambience of a two-storey house with a large garden.
Map J10
 

Little Bay
A: Dositijeva 9a, Tel: 3288-995. Open: Mon-Sun. 11- 01. Fine food in a glamorous, theatre-inspired décor, served to the sound of popular opera tunes. The servings come in rather small sizes, but the prices are quite fair and you could get a starter and a main course for the price of a single meal in another restaurant. The salmon fillet with creamy horseradish sauce costs less than 6 EUR and filo pastry parcel filled with duck with grilled vegetables and honey costs less than 7 EUR. Map H6
 

Lorenco & Kakalamba
A: Corner of Cvijićeva and Vladetina streets, Tel: 3295- 351, www.lk.rs. Open: Mon-Sun.12-24. A restaurant with a décor so extravagant that it is in itself an experience. Everything about this place is unique. The menu is a combination of south Serbian (Pirot area) and Italian fare and the food is surprisingly decent. Try Šušpe, sweet dry red peppers stuffed with spicy minced meat and cooked in a clay pot, lamb legs or sea bream baked in paper. Mapa K7
 
Čubura
A: Mačvanska 1 (Peyton Place), Tel: 2440-756. Open: Mon-Sun 8-23. One of the best grill restaurants in the city, this place is a must for all serious meat eaters. The interior is on the shabby side, but the vibe is friendly, and the place is always packed with locals and internationals brought together by their love of food. Do try rakia and the usual grill fare: ćevapi and ražnjići. If you like tulumba (fried batter soaked in sugar syrup) save some room for the dessert.Map J9
 

Tabor
A: Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 348 corner with Gospodara Vučića Street), Tel: 2412-464. Open: Mon-Sat. 10-01h. Traditional kafana where you go for good food and above all for good atmosphere - there is a live band playing traditional Serbian music every evening from 9pm until closing - therefore it is wise to book in advance, particularly if you are having a large party. Be sure to try Pikantni krompir Tabor (baby potatoes rolled in bacon with white sauce), Čačanski uštipci (minced meat baked with kaymak and roasted red peppers) and quince rakia. Out of Map
 

  
Mala fabrika ukusa
A: Nebojšina 49a, Tel:2435-727. Open: Mon-Sun. 9- 24.www.malafabrikaukusa.com. Serbian cuisine at its modern best in a wonderfully pleasant ambiance. There is a large summer terrace and a playground for children. Try grilled prunes stuffed with goat cheese and rolled in bacon (served on a Belgrade cobblestone), Gibanica (filo pie with cheese, kaymak and eggs), Janija (pork stew baked in the oven with parmesan crust) or shoulder of lamb in Marsala wine glaze. Map I10
 
Mićina domaća kujna
A: Prvomajska 108c (Zemun), Tel: 2610-365, Open: Mon-Sat.10-22.micinadomacakujna.com. Comfort food paradise. A kafana with truly scrumptious food, unpretentious interior and very reasonable prices. Your host and Chef will be Milan, son of Mića Stojanović who invented some of the classics of Serbian cuisine, such as Karađorđeva steak and Njeguški steak, and had been Tito’s personal chef for many years. Milan uses his father’s original recipes and this is the right place to try these dishes. Also you should try … well… everything… And if there is still room for dessert, try vanilla ice cream with hot wild berry sauce or orasnice (crescent shaped biscuits made of ground walnuts), the best in town. Out of Map
 

Klub književnika
A: Francuska 7, Tel: 2627-931. Open: Mon-Sun. 12-01. klubknjizevnika.rs. Following refurbishments, this once fabled Belgrade restaurant is again a place where you can be sure to enjoy your meal. Although it may have lost the magic of an “iconic” place, it still boasts one of the loveliest gardens in the central area and the opportunity to buy your favourite Serbian writer/actor a drink. Try breaded stuffed peppers, lamb roast and krempita (custard cream cake) with berries. Mapa I6
 
Byblos
A: Nebojšina 6 (entrance from the park),Tel:2441-938. byblos.rs. Open:Mon-Sun.12-24. Authentic Lebanese cuisine. Skilfully prepared food comes beautifully served in small portions and it might be a good idea to order several starters and mains and share them. However, if your appetite requires the amount of food typical of traditional Serbian restaurants, this will come heavy on your pocket. There are belly dance performers on some evenings, but you need to inquire at the restaurant about the schedule. A terrace overlooking a park is open in summer. Map I9
 

Lovac
A: Alekse Nenadovića 19 (corner with Njegoševa St.), Tel: 2436-128. restoranlovac.rs. Open: Mon-Sun. 9-24. The only restaurant in the urban core area where you can always order venison specialties. A pleasing setting, scrumptious grilled meats (a portion of mixed grilled for two is brought to the table on a small hot grill) and excellent service. Mapa I8
 

Salaš
A: Sinđelićeva 34 (Zemun), Tel: 2190-324, www.salas-  gardos.com. Open: Mon-Sun. 13-23. Traditional dishes from the north of Serbia, in the ambiance of a farm house from Vojvodina. Portions are massive, meant to be savoured slowly, washed down with plenty of wine to balance the rich, oily fare. The service is suitably slow. Try guinea fowl soup, turkey with cherries, deer goulash or hunter-style quail, and finish it off with plum dumplings. A lovely walk through Gardoš will take you to Salaš. Map C1
 

Sinđelić
A: corner of Vojislava Ilića and Gospodara Vučića St., Tel: 2412-297, restoransindjelic.rs. The old school of restaurant management, making no compromises with the quality of offer and service. The off-centre location should present no obstacle for a true gourmand. Elegant interior with lots of flowers. Try plum rakia, the "mature” one, steak tartare, or jagnjeća kapama (lamb stewed with dock and spring onions) served with thick yoghurt. Out of Map
 
Stara Hercegovina
A: Carigradska 36, Tel: 3245-856. Open: Mon-Sat 9- 24, Sun.10-19, starahercegovina.rs. A smoke-filled alehouse with plain interior and a colourful mix of diners. The air is thick with scents of fabulous comfort food that will cling to your clothes. In good weather, there are wooden tables and benches outside, overlooking a park. Do try grilled smoked pork ribs or pork knuckles and sauerkraut served with horseradish, and wash it down with draught beer. Map J6
 

Gnezdo Organic
A: Male Stepenice 1a (Street Stairway next to Branko's Bridge,  linking Karađorđeva and Kosančićev venac). Open: Tue-Sat. 13-23. gnezdoorganic.rs Tel: 060-7407-408. The first choice for those taking care of the origin of foodstuffs and disdaining mass-production. All dishes are made of carefully sourced and organic ingredients, be it chicken, veal, or vegetarian meals. There is a choice of salads and great freshly squeezed juices. Mapa G6
 
ABC
A: Ohridska bb (Zemun), Tel: 3166-816. Open: Tue- Sun. 8-24. An epicurean heaven. The menu is superb, but we suggest you put it aside and allow the Chef, who will come up in person to inquire about your gourmet preferences, to create a testing menu just for you. That way your taste buds will get to enjoy several dishes, such as beef fillet rolls with pumpkin seed sauce, duck breast with orange and prune sauce, pork fillet with caramel, truffle and green apple sauce, and four chocolate cake. It’s located in an out-of-the-way part of Zemun, so better take a taxi. Map A1
 

Žabar
A: Kej oslobođenja near Yugoslavia Hotel (Zemun), Tel: 3191-226, www.zabar.rs. Open: Mon-Sun An elegant, pricey restaurant on a river with a view of the Great War Island. Food is prepared and delivered with great care. The wine list is quite extensive, and if you are in doubt, there is a sommelier to help you with your choice. Try chicken soup with home-made noodles, ćuretina s mlincima (turkey breast baked with pasta tatters in rich cream and gorgonzola sauce) and Grandma Dara’s cake. Mapa D4

  
Top 5 exclusive restaurants*
*booking required, favourite with business people, politicians and celebrities

Franš
A: Bulevar oslobođenja 18a (Autokomanda), Tel: 2641-944, www.frans.rs. Open: Mon-Sat. 10-24.
International cuisine.
Madera
A: Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 43, Tel: 3231-332, www.maderarestoran.com. Open: Mon-Sun. 10-01.
International cuisine.
The Square
A: Studentski trg 9, Tel: 3333-150, thesquare.rs. Open: Mon-Sun. 6-23. International cuisine.
Kalemegdanska terasa
A: Belgrade Fortress, Tel: 3283-011. Open: Mon-  Sun. 12-01. International cuisine.
kalemegdanskaterasa.com
Diagonala
A: Skerlićeva 6, Tel: 2449-099, www.2tacka0.rs. Open: Mon-Sun. 12-24. Fusion.
  
Top 5 with great view
Caruso
A: Terazije 23 (Chamber of commerce, 8. floor), Tel: 3248-037, www.restorancaruso.com. Open: Mon- Sat. 8-24. International cuisine.
Rubin
A: Kneza Višeslava 29 (Košutnjak), Tel: 3510-987. Open: Mon-Sun. 12-23. Serbian cuisine.
Balkan Ekspres
A: Despota Đurđa 22 (Zemun, Gardoš), Tel: 2615-906. Open: Mon-Sun. 10-24. balkan-ekspres.rs. Italian and Serbian cuisine.
Comunale
A: Karađorđeva 2-4 (Beton hall), Tel: 3037-337. Open: Mon-Sun. 10-01. Italian cuisine.
Stara koliba
A: floating restaurant at Confluence of Sava and Danube River (New Belgrade); Tel: 3117-444. Open: Mon-Sun. 12-24. River fish and Seafood. starakoliba.rs
  
BEST Fish and SEAFOOD
Bevanda
A: Požarevačka 51 (Vračar), Tel: 2447-446. Open: Mon-Sun. 12-24. Feast from the sea: fresh, premium class sea fish and shellfish prepared in traditional Dalmatian style, caviar and oysters. Be sure to try their Buzara and baked octopus and potato. Good house wine, pleasant atmosphere and excellent service. Map K9
Gušti mora
A: Radnička 27 (near entrance to Ada Ciganlija, better take a taxi), Tel: 3551-268. Open: Mon-Sun. 12-24. Fresh, premium class sea fish and shellfish prepared in traditional Montenegrin style. Ask for fish from Adriatic Sea and Prstaci.
Šaran
A: Kej oslobođenja 53 (Zemun Quay), Tel: 2618-235, www.saran.co.rs. Open: Mon-Sun 9-01. One of the oldest restaurants in Zemun. There is a pleasing terrace and a band playing traditional urban folk. The menu features river fish and meat dishes. Try some of the local specialties: fish soup and carp fillets with caramelised onions and prunes. Mapa C1
Konoba kod Goce i Renata
A: Left bank of the Danube, under Pančevo Bridge (better take a taxi), Tel: 063/7747-791. Open: Mon-Sun. 10-24. It’s best to visit this restaurant in summer, because of its large terrace perched on the very bank of the Danube, where fishermen dock to sell their catch. There is also a playground for children. The menu expectedly features mostly fresh river fish and salads. Try smuđ na žaru (grilled zander, a fish related to perch). Map L4
  
  
Skadarlija

Once the centre of bohemian life in Belgrade, Skadarlija encompasses Skadarska Street and its neighbourhood. In the letter half of the 19th century, it became the hub of artistic movement and the favourite haunt of writers, journalists, and artists. The hubs of art and culture in Belgrade have moved elsewhere, and Skadarlija is nowadays a popular tourist attraction and a place that holds a special appeal for expatriate Belgraders. This cobbled street is lined with kafanas, some of them dating from the 19th century, where live bands play urban folk music. The food here is expectedly not the best that you can find in Belgrade, but is quite decent, and it’s worth visiting one of these kafanas:
Dva jelena (Skadarska 32, Tel: 7234-885. Open: Mon-Sun. 11-01. Open since 1867. Margaret Thatcher visited here a few times), Tri šešira (Skadarska 29, Tel: 3247-501. Open: Mon-Sun. 11-01. Open since 1864. Famous guests include Jimi Hendrix, Willy Brandt, Henry Kissinger... ), Ima dana (Skadarska 38, Tel: 3234-422. Open: Mon- Sun.11-01. Open since 1968, visited by Pelé, King Juan Carlos of Spain, Larry Bird...).

Šešir moj (Skadarska 21, Tel: 3228-750. Open: Mon-Sun. 9-01. Open since 1991, recognisable by the outdoor patio full of flowers and good musicians. Famous guests include José Carreras, Catherine Deneuve, Orhan Pamuk...).
Belgrade syndicate in Skadarlija 
  
  
Fast Food
Čobanov odmor
A: Vojvode Šupljikca 34, Tel: 2450-947. Open: Mon- Sun. 7-02. Fast food Serbian style: komplet lepinja, roast meat, tobacco cracklings, pihtije, veal soup, bean soup...

  
La Petite Cantine
A: Dobračina 19, Tel: 063/1902-761. Open: Mon-Sat. 8:30-18:00. French Croissant, Brioche au chocolat, Baguette Sandwich, Onion soup...
Gvero
A: corner of Omladinskih brigada and Milutina Milankovića St., Tel: 2163-135. Open: Mon-Sat. 8- 22:30. Wide choice of grilled meat.
Loki
A: Gospodar Jovanova 27. Open: Mon-Sun. 0-24.
Wide choice of grilled meat.
Solunac
A: Terazije 36, Tel: 3626-202. Open: Mon-Sun. 0- 24. Greek Gyros.
Šiš ćevap
A: Goce Delčeva 27, New Belgrade. Tel: 3195-507. Open: Mon-Sun. 0-24. Wide choice of grilled meat.
Tel Aviv Hummus House
A: Carice Milice 3, Tel: 069/2632-223. Open: Mon-Sat. 0-24. Hummus and Falafel.

Čeda Bakery
A: Mutapova 65 (near Kalenić green market). The best burek in town! They pretty much sell only burek and yogurt. Open: Mon-Sun. 7-13.
  

  
Vegetarian & Vegan
Radost, Pariska 3 (near French Embassy), Tel:060-6030-023. Open: Tue-Sat. 14-24, Sun. 13-21. Vegetarian and vegan cuisine. Map G6
  
Asian food
Shangrila, Trešnjinog cveta 9 (New Belgrade), Tel: 4056-565. Open: Sun-Thu. 10-24, Fri-Sat. 10-01. Authentic and expensive Chinese cuisine. Map C5
Ebisu, Studentski trg (Square Nine Hotel rooftop), Tel: 3333-575. squarenine.rs. Open: Tue-Sun.18-01. Japanese cuisine. Map H6
W-Sushi Vračar, Petrogradska 18, Tel: 3441-814. www.wsushi.rs. Open: Mon-Sat. 11:30-02. Japanese cuisine. Map J9
  

  
Thai Time, Topolska 4, Tel: 069-2221-556. Open: Mon-Sun. 9-02. thaitime.rs Thai cuisine. Map J9
Wang Fu, Jurija Gagarina 26v (across Chinese Shopping centre), Tel: 2285-060. Open: Mon-Sun. 10-23. Chinese cuisine. Map A8
Diwali, Ljubićka 1b (Dušanovac), Telefon: 3446-235. www.diwali.rs. Open: Tue-Sun. 11-23. Indian cuisine. Map K11
  
Belgrade cheap eats
Hotel Bristol restaurant, A: Karađorđeva 50 (entrance from Hadži Nikole Živkovića St.). Set menu (3 course meal): approximately 3 euro. Map G7
Kafana Šumadija, A: Kneza Miloša 19. Set menu (until 18:00) approximately 4 euro (3 course meal). They also have Vegetarian set menu. Map I7